this post was submitted on 11 Sep 2026
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This is the back of my 10" Mini server rack -- Custom made 3D printed power modules for each server (media.piefed.zip)
submitted 23 hours ago* (last edited 22 hours ago) by Legion739@piefed.zip to c/selfhosted@lemmy.world
61 comments fedilink hide all child comments
 

I've seen so many 10" servers that look amazing from the front and very polished, but then having a rats nest of cables and a mess at the back.

After 62 iterations and many 3D prints, blood, sweat, profanity and tears. I my design and implementation is finally done. image
I used Hexagons where possible, because as you know, Hexagons are the bestagons

This is Before:
image

And the After:
image
The ducky adds 200MHz

The front of my mini-rack is actually still somewhat of a mess, I thought I'd focus on the back first.

I've published it in excruciating detail on my GitHub Leave a Star if you like what you see.

I self host a bunch of stuff on here to get away from Big-Tech, and because I find it fun. For a lot more details see https://erasmus.works/

It always bothered me the the fronts of racs are modular, but not the backs, this solves that
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hopefully this helps other clear up their rats nests.

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[–] Nomad@infosec.pub 29 points 22 hours ago (2 children)

Cool build. Please be aware there is a reason that Sockets are made from a plastic that does not melt nor burn. Everything near power connections is a potential fire hazard.

[–] Legion739@piefed.zip 22 points 22 hours ago* (last edited 22 hours ago) (1 children)

Thanks yea I made sure to add this Safety section to my write-up on how to build this yourself, and I reference back to it a lot, so it's painfully clear.

I printed this in PETG which can take the heat easily, but ideally you use UL 94 V-0 which is also flame retardant.

I did make sure everything is very well insulated, and pulled hard on every connection to make sure it's held down properly.

**Safety**  

This part carries live mains. Mains wiring kills people who get it wrong, and a fault in a printed enclosure can start a fire.  

Do not build it unless you are competent to wire mains and permitted to do so where you live. Sleeve or shroud all live terminals. PLA softens around 60 °C, PETG around 80 °C. Neither is flame retardant. Only a UL 94 V-0 filament is.  

Wire the protective earth if anything you plug in needs it.  

Build it at your own risk. I take no responsibility for injury, death, fire, or damage resulting from anything in this repository.
[–] snrkl@lemmus.org 4 points 6 hours ago* (last edited 6 hours ago) (1 children)

I don't want to be the "Deputy Downer" here, but I can't stress the important of the v0 (we say v-naught) plastics in keeping you safe when it comes to electrical installations - for those that aren't aware, they are plastics that have to self extinguish once the fault trips the electrical protection, should a fault occur that sets them on fire. (ie: once the electricity isn't making it flame anymore, it has to put itself out)

Here is an example of how even low voltage DC can fault, and had the LED strip diffuser plastic not been v0 rated, we would have had a late night house fire into the roof when kids were asleep...

Laundry Light Fitting Failure

PETG in this kind of situation just becomes fuel and possible a very, very, very bad day....

I know v0 spools are more expensive, but cheaper than just about any of the disaster situation alternatives, so I always suggest you prototype with PLA/PETG but print v0 for the finals...

[–] Legion739@piefed.zip 1 points 1 hour ago

Thanks for this, I founds some self-extinguishing PETG, that's really not much more expensive than PETG. Definitely worth the money

https://shop.filament-pm.com/petg-frjet-self-extinguishing-white-1-75-mm-0-5-kg/p166

[–] cantstopthesignal@sh.itjust.works 4 points 19 hours ago (3 children)

Ya. I don't run more than 5A (basically a usb) through 3d printed stuff for that reason. Filament is designed to melt.

[–] Nomad@infosec.pub 1 points 1 hour ago

I think you want to say 5W? Amperage is just half of the equation. :)

[–] chiliedogg@lemmy.world 1 points 8 hours ago (1 children)

You run 5 amps through a USB?

[–] docandersonn@literature.cafe 1 points 7 hours ago

USB-PD standard allows for 20V at 5A?

[–] helix@feddit.org 5 points 18 hours ago (1 children)

You mean 5W?

[–] cantstopthesignal@sh.itjust.works 3 points 15 hours ago* (last edited 14 hours ago)

I was assuming some kind of 3.3V or 5V logic, like an esp32 or an arduino. I don't mess around with big power circuits at all. If I inject power it's going to be pretty low wattage. Sorry for the confusion.