I've seen so many 10" servers that look amazing from the front and very polished, but then having a rats nest of cables and a mess at the back.
After 62 iterations and many 3D prints, blood, sweat, profanity and tears. I my design and implementation is finally done.
I used Hexagons where possible, because as you know, Hexagons are the bestagons
This is Before:
And the After:
The ducky adds 200MHz
The front of my mini-rack is actually still somewhat of a mess, I thought I'd focus on the back first.
I've published it in excruciating detail on my GitHub Leave a Star if you like what you see.
I self host a bunch of stuff on here to get away from Big-Tech, and because I find it fun. For a lot more details see https://erasmus.works/
It always bothered me the the fronts of racs are modular, but not the backs, this solves that
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hopefully this helps other clear up their rats nests.
Yea each one runs through the previous module, so all the power goes through the first module.
IEC 13/14 connectors are rated for 10A (2300 W at 230 V) which isn't much lower than what you can run through your wall outlet. And in reality they can probably handle 15A(What your wall can handle) as they are commonly refereed to as "Kettle cords" and used by kettles which draw ~13 Amps.
That's very high, to give you an idea the 6 things I have plugged in draws ~240w, so I could chain up ~60 mini PC's and only then would I be over the ~2300w limit.
I do now mention this in the Safety section of my "How to build this" write up
Looks like youve done your research!
Depending on the kettle model, most draw just under 10A these days. General household outlets (at least in australia) are only rated for 10A anyway.
Ive used hundreds of kettle leads in my time and never seen one used for an actual kettle funnily enough
uk can go to 13A peak load on the standard 230v socket, but drawing that for a prolonged period will nuke the socket. 10a prolonged is perfectly safe in the uk.