I use DokuWiki, and i love that it's plaintext files. it makes backing them up so much easier. I can literally just zip the directory, then upload to somewhere else.
I am the only user on it, and i don't use too many advanced features, so I don't know how it stacks up against other more advanced wikis, such as mediawiki or wiki.js. Though I do use a lot of plugins, such as the infobox plugin. I love that plugin. It doesn't rival MediWiki's infobox, but it does the job well enough for me.
Note: I only have about 300 pages, so i have no idea how it stacks up against thousands or millions of pages, like MediaWiki.
if you have access to the file system, sed works well for renaming files and updating the links. Though admittedly, that's not a very convenient way to to do it.
edit: and fucks up the page edit history a little too.